Light spectrum greatly affects plant morphology, and we know that it also effects flowering time in short day plants due to the nature of the phytochrome system.
Not only that, but very few genetics are actually homogenous or close to homogenous. Depending on how far they are from being homogenous, you may have some seeds ready in as little as 6 or 7 weeks while others may take weeks. That said, given these purple ass stems this guy is going to either need to make the decision to finish solving that nutrient deficiency or just continue on with the flush and sacrifice the yield.
Just get this one over with and start the next one. Also, definitely get in with that jewelers loupe and toss out any nugs that look like they might have mite damage. The mites actually could have been the reason your plant looks nutrient deficient as well….
I think this is a slow flowering strain it seemed slow the last time I grew it well the last time I grew both of them I have two different strains although the largest 2 are the same strain.
I would say more towards the 12 week side maybe more from my last experience but these new lights may change that.
First four weeks were under about actual watts of blurple a and blurple watt num lol. I removed the and added watts of quantum boards.
I seem to have plenty of light now for the area of the tent I am using. I cant wait to get this particular grow harvested so that I can do everything correct with the next batch. The clones wont be ready to go into flower for at least a month though so I am gonna give them all the time they need.
I want the best yield and potency I can get. I had to lower the temps over the mites though and that has slowed the plants a lot I can tell last couple weeks maybe 3 they have been around 68 degrees up to 71 at highs. I have no idea why I am not seeing ladybugs nymphs eating them as there are ladybugs screwing all over the tent.
I am a girl not a guy btw. I believe it was the salt buildup honestly as I have had both of these strains eat up way worse with mites than these are and they never showed any signs like this. I do have experience with mites on them haha. I guess I made that decision this morning already I mixed up a batch of nutes halfed the calmag I was using and watered. I would rather not sacrifice my yield I can keep them going if you fellas steer me int he right direction and keep me from killin them LMFAO jk I am learning for real.
I learned you cant skimp on the watering till runoff. Some pms were near 3k so I would say the salt buildup was part of the prob the mites the other when they were bad week I may have continued the flush but my clones are only about a foot tall if that and I would like to get them in a bit better shape before moving them in probably a month or more at this point so I have plenty of time to solve it and flower them out.
Hopefully solve it anyway. My luck I will have as many problems the next grow. I wish I could find someone who knew how to breed the ladybugs. Use only water during flushing. The one factor you need to control is the pH-value of the water. At slightly acidic pH values between 5. If you start overwatering now, you run the risk of causing nutrient deficits that could damage your crop right before the finish line.
The advice is to keep flushing cannabis for several days at least. Coco or hydroponic growers should flush for about one week. A single flush should be more than enough.
The soil is already balanced of its own nature; micro organisms have seen to every single need of your plants already. Flushing means not giving your plants any extras anymore. However, the following exceptions are made:. Keep a close eye on the colour of your leaves.
The best time for harvesting and therefore, flushing is before the sugar leaves start turning yellow. If you get the timing just right in flushing cannabis and harvesting your plants, now is the time to enjoy the outstanding taste and smell of your weed. Two additional reasons for flushing cannabis exist. These are not related to harvesting, but can instead solve problems at other points of your grow.
The loss of P and K results in leaf edge curl and dead spots. After the plant has extracted the valuable nutrients from the leaf, leaving mostly cellulose, it has no further use and it withers and dies. The goal is to time the total loss of nutrients with ripening of the buds so nutrient deprivation does not cause appreciable loss. Iron Fe deficiency, though rare, often results in bright yellow leaves around the buds. But the same effect could also be caused by N deficiency late in flowering.
Lack of Zn, which is rare, causes twisted atypical growth. As the leaves dry the buds continue to grow and mature. They use the reserves being drawn from the media, roots, xylem and leaves. Flowering formula fertilizers contain little or no N. Plants growing in soil or planting mixes use the residual N loosely bound in the media that continues to dissolve.
The major nutrient N, which is mobile, translocates from the lower leaves to the upper canopy. The lower leaves turn bright yellow then curl and dry. Hydroponic mixes without media reserves require some N during the first half of flowering usually weeks and less during the next quarter days.
The lack of N towards the end of flowering hastens ripening and maturity. This is one of the cues the plant uses to begin ripening. Photo by David Downs. Sandy Soil: Flush for a week.
Porous Loam: Flush for days. Some nutrients are held tenuously to the matrix and need a bit more flushing than sandy soils. Heavy Loams and Clays: Flush for days. These soils bind nutrients that are hard to rinse away and must be used up by the plant.
Enriched Soils and Mixes: Soils that were enriched using additives such as plant meals and manures may not require any flushing. Soil microorganisms dissolve the nutrients locked in organic compounds and provide them to the roots as needed.
Most nutrients that are left are still locked up in organic matter. There is probably very little free N. However, if bottom leaves are not yellowing, there is too much nutrient left in the soil and the mix should be flushed. Planting Mixes: Planting mixes differ in their abilities to buffer or hold nutrients so each should be dealt with in its own manner. Peat moss and Coco : Flush one week if bottom leaves are green and days if they are yellow. These mediums buffer nutrients nutrients attach to them , but flushing will have a noticeable effect on the crop.
The free nutrients are already dissolved and are easily rinsed away. The plants react immediately, first showing signs in the lower leaves, which turn yellow. The buds also ripen faster. The roots in these systems are usually anchored in a non-nutritive mix composed mostly of coir or peat moss.
Infrequently, clay pebbles or perlite are used. None of these bind tightly to the nutrients so plants respond immediately to the new nutrient-free environment. Flushes remove or make nutrients unavailable to the roots so plants are forced to use their reserves for growth. The most popular flush is plain water. Precipitated nutrients cannot be taken up or used by the roots. Other salts are bound to larger organic molecules attached to the planting medium.
These are only moderately available to the roots and are made available through mycorrhizae and other organisms in the rhizosphere the area of the media that surrounds the roots. All other salts are soluble and drain out when flushed. A few flushes claim that they contain chelates that actually draw nutrients from the plants. This may be true but has not been proven yet.
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