We are talking about how to purge the filter of air in your closed system transfer. Either noone is explaing it, or im a complete dumbass. This is the way im looking at it 1. Increase full keg above carbonation level to kpa 2. Fill empty keg with c02 to kpa 3.
Connect filter to full keg, bleed air until filter is primed. Reconnect keg to gas so the keg and filter is back at kpa As you will lose pressure during priming 4. Connect the filter to the receiving kegs out post, and slowly open the pressure relief to transfer. Before connecting the filter to the receiving keg run beer in to the filter under pressure using the relief valve to purge the air. Also give the receiving keg a good flush with CO2.
Then simply connect the filter between the 2 beer posts. A quick pull on the keg relief valve on the lower receiving keg will cause the flow to start. Hope above makes sense. WitWonder Well-Known Member. OK, I have a small emergency with my beer I was hoping to serve for Xmas day still awfully cloudy.
I have been attempting to de-carbonate the keg over the last few days because my first attempt at filtering which was with carbonated beer was somewhat of a disaster however it still appears to be somewhat carbonated. In relation to the filter, I'm still not sure how pouring carbonated beer from the keg into another vessel filter doesn't result in the filter just foaming up?
Unless the filter housing is also under the same pressure as both the "in" keg and the "out" keg - e. Is the CB filter housing rated for this pressure or am I missing something? Merry xmas witwonder. You need to set the system up in a tiered gravity fashion, have the beer keg highest then the filter lower and the receiving keg lower again.
Keep the whole system at the same pressure and then slowly start to vent gas from the receiving keg to get the flow going. I've only tried this system once and it took quite a while to transfer. Make sure that the filter housing is screwed on tightly.
Good luck! Gitchegumee, you may have a point there. Basically I do it because it requires less attention on my part during the latter part of fermentation. Trying to catch it when there's just enough sugar left to carbonate, not enough to set off the PRV, isn't easy.
I suppose a smart person, though, could rig up a gadget to relieve pressure once it reaches a certain point. Have you such gadetry? Woolsocks, I have built some of these for our fermenters with parts from grainger.
Stainless t, all thread, a ball valve, and variable pressure relief valve page Not as reliable as a barby, but lots cheaper and they do the job. And all our tanks have PRV's as an additional safety.
I filter carbonated beer with an erosion dosing DE filter, which has a closed dosing tank, so it doesn't foam.
Also the balance lines are key. Good Luck! Paul Thomas Brewer Sockeye Brewing www. I guess that's better than nothing, but it's hardly the whole job.
Is this something better suited for lager brewing? You don't need to try to dissolve it at fermentation temperature. One type of filter that meets these goals is the cylindrical cartridge filter. They consist of a 12in. This size of housing fits a standard cylindrical 10 in. The filter cartridge has top and bottom O rings for a tight fit. Fluid is pushed in one side of the top fitting, is forced through the filter media, and then exits the other side of the top fitting.
These filters are fabricated of pleated polypropylene and are listed according to both efficiency and micron size. The type I like to use is the The lower the efficiency rating, the higher the probability that some beer will get by unfiltered.
The importance of high efficiency ratings is the main reason not to use any of the common industrial filters sold in hardware stores. Other reasons include cleanability many inexpensive ones cannot be cleaned after yeast has been impregnated in them and the desirability of food-grade FDA-approved construction.
I have probably filtered more than gallons through one of mine. Cold conditioning helps to sediment yeast and haze products that will easily drop out of solution. The beer can be carbonated during this period and the final carbonation adjusted after filtration, or the beer can be filtered and then carbonated. Filtering still beer is usually easier because it requires less attention to the back pressure that otherwise must be maintained on the receiving keg.
Purge air from unfiltered keg and serving keg using CO 2 cylinder; pressurize serving keg to 10 psi. Open bleed valve to allow beer to flow through system to serving keg. Filters must be sanitized before use. To do this I usually disassemble the filter and soak the tubing, the filter housing, and the filter in a sanitizer.
Step-by-step filtration: The flow rate of beer across the filter can be controlled simply by adjusting the carbon dioxide pressure at the regulator, connected through the CO 2 IN line of a standard Cornelius keg. This valve lets me control the flow rate independently of the regulator, and if the beer is carbonated it allows most of the carbonation level to be maintained. It also reduces fobbing in the receiving keg. Once the filter is connected to the keg containing unfiltered beer, the filter cartridge can be filled with beer.
The filter cartridge can be bled off if desired; this can be useful if you want to purge any air that may be in the filter. The receiving keg is then connected through the BEER OUT line, and the bleed valve is opened to allow the beer to flow through the system.
Then hook your "OUT" from your donor keg to the "IN" of the filter, and then the output of the filter to the "OUT" of the empty presurized receiving keg. This requries 2 OUT jacks hooked to the filter unit. Now, you just need to start releasing pressure from the receiving keg slowly and let the pressure difference do it's work.
The donor keg will push carbonated beer through the filter, and if you have enough pressure behind the beer, you won't need to run the filter's pummp at all. It'll take over 2 hours, but it works. CadillacAndy Well-Known Member. ItalianGuy78 said:.
Brad said:. ClaudiusB Well-Known Member. It will cause the beer to un-carbonate,. There wouldn't be a concern of pressure building up too much in a plastic plate filter that would cause leaks or anything, right?
I haven't worked with filters, but I use gelatin to clear my beers with amazing results. I do it the way BierMuncher does it here, With your beer already keg'd and carb'd just remove your gas QCD, release the pressure on the keg, add the gelatin and you're set. I normally see a difference after about 24 hours and it looks crystal clear after three days.
I've heard that you can get 'beer jello' at the bottom of your keg, but I've always been drinking on the beer as the gelatin is working so it doesn't set in the bottom of the keg like it may if you add the gelatin and not pull some of the sediment from the bottom daily. Haha, I just realized that we're all responding to a two-year-old post! RedDragon, if you're still around, I hope that your results were great and that you ended up with awesome beer!
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